I blame Mara!!! She made so many adorable tea cosies for our Railway City Arts Crawl event, and many of them were sock monkeys,
…that I just had to come up with this sock design!
This was a quick-to-write pattern, because it requires my “Sock Science Too” pattern for the short row heel. You can use a different short row heel pattern, if you want, …but Sock Science Too comes with a stitch count/row count checklist 🙂 …so why not?!?
I hope you enjoy the picot turning fold-over cuff design, and the nice, clean stripes in the ribbing – no colour blips in these purl columns!
This cuff looks great when folded over. Before? Not so much!
And then, just in case someone doesn’t really get that these are sock monkey socks, you can embroider a face on the back of the ankle. I plan to re-do this face because ankles are a bit narrower than I realized …so these eyes look a bit like fish eyes!
And this is the toe. 🙂
So, you can always … (say no to clothes)
…but you should always say “YES” to Sock Monkey Socks!!!
Sock Monkey Work Socks …using Sock Science Too
About the Pattern: This fun monkey sock is a quick ‘add-on’ to my Sock Science Too pattern.
These socks are cast on at the cuff and have a ‘clean’ stripe and a turning round worked in the ribbing. The short row garter stitch heel is explained in my Sock Science Too pattern where you’ll find a stitch count / row chart to keep you on track.
- needles: set of 5 double pointed needles in 3.25 mm; darning needle
- yarn: Briggs & Little Tuffy (a heavy worsted weight) in Granite 96 (marled), Ecru 85 and Red Mix 95.
For my ladies’ small, I used 115 m of Granite 96, 64 m of Ecru 85 and 17 m of Red Mix 95.
20 stitches and 26 rows = 4” in stocking stitch
child to adult
cast on, knit, purl, knit 2 together, ssk, wrap and turn, yarn over, grafting (aka Kitchener stitch)
This sock can be worked in multiples of 4 sts. For ladies small, medium and large sizes, I recommend 36 (40, 44) sts based on the above gauge. Try 36 sts for an older child and 48 or 52 sts for men’s medium or large. Remember that you need about 10% negative ease for a sock (in other words, the sock needs to stretch to fit), so subtract approximately 10% of the sts from your foot circumference, and then choose a ‘close’ multiple of 4 sts. Remember: ‘close’ usually works just fine for socks!
For a 40 st sock at 5 sts per inch, a sock will have an 8-inch circumference to fit a 9-inch circumference foot. If the gauge is looser, at 4 sts per inch, the sock will have a 10-inch circumference.
For a 48 st sock at 5 sts per inch, a sock will have an 9.6-inch circumference to fit a 10.6 -inch circumference foot. If the gauge is looser, at 4 sts per inch, the sock will have a 12-inch circumference.
To save time, take time to check tension.”
Using double pointed needles and Ecru, cast on a multiple of 4 sts, as suggested above. The sample sock used 40 sts.
The next section is optional for those using a long tail cast on. This option gives a nice cast on edge when the cuff is folded over (no purl bumps above the knit sts).
Here are 2 options:
- Cast on. Before joining in the round, bring yarn forward between needles; slip first st on left ndl to right ndl; move yarn to back between ndls; return slipped st to left ndl. (The first and last sts of the rnd are now connected.) Turn (and flip) work, and work *K2, p2* ribbing. Notice that you are working in the opposite direction of normal cuff knitting. (This is my preferred method for fold-over cuffs.)
- Cast on. Turn the work without joining in the round and work one row of *K2, p2* ribbing. Now join in the round, continuing the ribbing pattern. When the sock is complete, use the yarn tail to close the gap caused by working a row before joining in the round. Place marker at beginning of rnd.
- Using Ecru, work*k2, p2* ribbing for 9 rnds.
- Using Red Mix, purl 1 rnd. (This rnd prevents colour ‘blips’ from showing in the purl columns on the outside of the cuff.)
- Work *k2, p2* ribbing for 3 rnds.
- Using Ecru, purl 1 rnd.
- Using Ecru, work*k2, p2* ribbing for 6 more rnds.
- To work a picot turning rnd, work *p2tog, yarn over; repeat from* to end of rnd.
- Purl 1 rnd.
- Work*k2, p2* ribbing for 3 more rnds.
- Cut Ecru leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in later.
- With Granite, work *k2, p2* ribbing for 7 rnds and then continue in stocking stitch for 35 rnds or desired length.
- Decide on your required number of sts for heel based on the Sock Science Too pattern. Because you may be working on 50%, 60%, or 70% of your sock sts, you’ll want to rearrange the heel sts onto the 2 dpns nearest your beginning of rnd marker. Now work one partial round in Granite, ending at first heel ndl.
- Start heel chart using an odd numbered row that matches the number of sts on your heel ndls – for example, if there are 28 heel sts, begin with Row 23, which uses 28 sts.
- Without cutting Granite, join Ecru and work first 8 rows of heel (4 garter ridges). Smaller heel sizes should only need 4 rows (2 garter ridges) in Ecru.
- Without cutting Ecru, join Red Mix and continue short rows to bottom of this column. Because of the yarn thickness , you may want to add two extra short rows: Row 43 – 4/3/4 and Row 44 – 3/3/4.
- Continue using Red Mix and begin at the top of the “Rows Get Longer” column. If you added 2 extra short rows at the end of the previous column, you’ll need to add 2 rows at the top of this next column: Row i – 3/4/5 and Row ii – 4/4/5. Use Red Mix until there are 8 rows remaining and work these in Ecru. In the final two short rows, wrap one extra stitch ‘borrowed from each of the instep ndls’.
- Using Granite, continue in stocking stitch and pick up the visible wraps on the 2sts that were ‘borrowed from the instep ndls’ on the final 2 heel short rows.
- Knit length of foot to base of toes.
- Work 1 rnd in Ecru and 1 rnd in Red Mix. Cut Red Mix. Begin toe decreases as per pattern, but you may decide to decrease down to 12 sts (again, because of the thickness of the yarn) before grafting the toe.
…and for some extra smiles, embroider a monkey face!